Slots In Bumpers Of Old Cars
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Go to any classic car show, and you're bound to hear at least one conversation covering the subject of how chrome bumpers are closely tied to 'the good old days', with any given style representing the beginning or end of any individual's golden era of choice. Look at it close if the bumpers are molded to the body great if they are separate pieces great but if they are molded into the bottom of the car you have to do the 1st step a little different. If the bumpers are molded to the body or separate pieces then drill the two rivets out on the bottom of the car and remove everything except the glass.
| Front Office | Car Lot | Trailer Park | Grease Pit | Tool Box |
The yellow car above is a typical example of a 'SPLIT' in a screw post. I consider deeper, wider 'splits' to be further along damage wise than a 'crack'. Chrome - Make sure the bumpers are 'factory' melted in. If the melt marks look too big or not in the correct place, the bumpers have probably been replaced. If the bumpers are molded into the bottom of the car take your trusty Dremel tool and cutting disk and cut through the bottom of the diecast just behind the front rivet and in front of the rear rivet.
Click on images for larger views.
This page is a guide to identifying Chrysler, Dodge and Plymouth jacks and jack hooks. This will help you identify the proper jack parts for your particular car or parts you may have laying around. Note that this page only covers up through 1971 models. After that, Chrysler went to a universal jack type that had a hook that fit into a slot in the bumper. I am not an expert, I have gathered this information from several sources and some of it may not be correct, please feel free to send corrections. I'm also looking for pictures to fill the holes in the list.
This will be a growing page as I gather more information and photos. If you have anything to contribute, feel free to contact me at
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o First find a diecast body that has the wheelbase you want or an existing TJET body you want to reproduce.
o There are two ways for the 1st step. Some people grind out and mount the diecast to a TJET first and make the inside mold ( also called male mold) and some people make the outside mold (also called female mold) first. I make the outside mold first as I want to make the resin body as thin as I can.
o So you have the trusty diecast car in your hand. Look at it close if the bumpers are molded to the body great if they are separate pieces great but if they are molded into the bottom of the car you have to do the 1st step a little different. If the bumpers are molded to the body or separate pieces then drill the two rivets out on the bottom of the car and remove everything except the glass and if separate the bumpers. If the bumpers are molded into the bottom of the car take your trusty Dremel tool and cutting disk and cut through the bottom of the diecast just behind the front rivet and in front of the rear rivet. Then remove everything except the glass.
o Now fill the entire inside of the diecast with Kleen Klay, it should be squishing out the side windows, and wheel wells and at least 1/4 inch below the bottom of the body. Now clean up the side windows making sure they are indented (clay is pushed in from the side of car), indent the wheel wells and clean up the edges where the clas meets the front and rear bumpers and side of car.
o Now polish up the car and remove all fingerprints etc.
o I then place the car on a flat piece of plastic. I use old CD cases, Ziplock top that I have cut etc, just a thin piece of plastic. I then take a small mold box with the bottom cut out of it over the car and tape the edges of the box where they meet the flat plastic.
o I then mix up enough silicone to fill the box which is normally one bathroom cup filled 3/4 with part A and one bathroom cup filled 3/4 with Part B and mix. I use Smooth-on's OOMA 25.
o Come back after 90 mins and remove the Mold from the box and the car from the mold
o I then slosh cast this mold to get a shell to mount posts to and reinsert into outer mold to make the inner mold. I coat the mold with a light dusting of Baby Powder. I then heat the mold for 1:30 1:45 mins in the microwave. I mix up 1/4 teaspoon of Part A and Part B of resin. I pour it in the mold and by tilting the mold back and forth and side-to-side I keep the resin flowing covering all the body. When the resin gets as thick as molasses and almost ready to set up I tilt the mold forward and turn upside down with the front of the mold (front of body) tilted down slightly.
o I remove the body clean it up, remove the windows I want to remove and add body mounting posts.
o The first bodies I made, I used JW's body mounting posts and epoxied them in. I now use some of my older inside molds and pour resin into their body post cavities and make resin posts that I glue to the body using resin. I like these better as they are easier to work with, i.e, grind down.
o After I have the body post on, drilled and mounted, I will use this body to go back inside the mold. I put tooth picks in the body post screw holes. I cover the outside mold with vaseline every place the inside mold silicone might touch the outside mold when its poured. Silicon sticks to silicone.
o I then place the mold box on the top of the outside mold as shown here.
o Then I mix up some OOMA 25 and pour in the inside.
o Then, I carefully pull the molds apart.
o Clean all the vaseline off both molds, and I'm ready for my first pour. I use 1/2 teaspoon of Part A and Part B of resin. I use Smooth-on's 300 and 320 as well as MicroMarks EasyFlo 300 and Bare-metal foils Poly S. For some reason I always miss a little of the vaseline but you will see where it is by looking at your first casting it will show on the surface anywhere you missed the vaseline.
o Get Smooth-ons Starter kit, it has everything except the Kleen Klay which I get from Micro Mark.
o I use plastic Bathroom Cups and Cheap plastic measuring spoon sets from Walmart. I swirl the parts A and B around in the cup to mix it. I use plastic bottles from the Candy making Hobby section of Walmart these are used for applying chocolate and have red caps to close them. I pour the parts A and B of the resin into their own bottle, this makes it very easy to pour and measure, they are cheap enough that I just throw them away and buy new ones when I run out. The molding box I got from my local Hobby shop. A lot of guys use Leggos for molding boxes.
o Now what is different for 1/43rd is I make the mold box out of Foamboard and Hot glue except for on end of the mold box and I use fun tac (the sticky stuff you use to hang kids drawings on the wall). I do this so I can more easily remove the mold and not tear up the box. However when I did the Willy's the box I had was not tall enough I found a small cardboard box that would work and put plastic wrap in the box then put the diecast then poured the silicone.
o In the pictures above, you see two tooth picks sticking out of the mounting posts I now glue tooth picks to the bottom edge of the car on each side behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels, also I glue thee to the front and rear of the body, with one in the middle and the other two right where the bumpers start to bend. These are to keep the air bubbles from forming along the bottom side edges and on the front and rear. I did not do this with the GT40 and regretted it. All the bodies I have done since have the extra air vents. Also on the Artin Monte Carlo I added a vent to the piece that rides on the rear axle, one on the front of each support. I wish now I would have added two: one at the highpoint on each support. I use approximately two bathroom cups full of Part A and two cups of Part B of the silicone to make the outside and 1 3/4 Cup each for the inside mold. It takes a tablespoon of part A and a tablespoon of Part B of resin to make a body
KITS
I strongly recommend Smooth-on kits for price and the 1 : 1 silicone mixing ratio. Here are all the kits I know about.
www.smooth-on.com
➢ SuperSamplers - Everything You Need to Make a Mold & Casting
o Smooth-On's SuperSamplers provide a very economical introduction to our line of mold making and casting products. For just $25 or $30, users can make a one-time purchase of a SuperSampler kit that includes a mold rubber, Smooth-Cast 300 liquid plastic, a mold release/sealer combo pack and our essential 40-page booklet:
➢ Silicone SuperSampler
o Each Silicone SuperSampler contains working samples of OOMOO 30 silicone mold rubber and Smooth-Cast 300 liquid plastic, Ease Release 815 release agent for silicone, SuperSeal , and the 'How to Make Molds & Castings' booklet.
➢ $25.00
www.bare-metal.com
➢ Mold Making Starter Kit
➢ Our starter kit has everything you need to make your own molds and castings.
➢ RTV Mold Material, Casting Resin, Handbook, Klean Klay
➢ We have assembled the Experts-Choice™ Mold Making and Resin Casting Starter Kit with the beginner in mind. If you have never made a mold or casting before, you can now get started with all the products you need in one convenient package.
➢
➢ The kit supplies you with enough mold material to make a good-sized mold or several small ones. Experts-Choice™ Mold Material LV is a fast curing 1:1 by volume soft rubber that is easy to mix and pour. Our molding compound is very low in viscosity so it will virtually de-air itself for a bubble free mold.
➢
Slots In Bumpers Of Old Cars And Trucks
We also include 16 ounces of Por-A-Kast® resin. Por-A-Kast® is a 1:1 by volume casting resin that pours almost like water. Por-A-Kast® will pick up detail down to a fingerprint. This resin mixes easily and has a 1-½ minute pot life and a 5-7 minute cure time. Your castings can be de-molded in 10-15 minutes.➢ Also with the starter kit is one pound of Klean Klay, a non-hardening re-useable clay, stirring sticks, and mixing cups. We also provide you with our own instructions that will help you understand how each product works. And should you find yourself in need of any help, Bare-Metal is always happy to answer your mold making questions; just give us a call.
➢ One pound of Experts-Choice™ Low Viscosity Mold Material
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One 16 oz. Trial size kit of Por-A-Kast® polyurethane resin ➢ One pound of Klean Klay re-usable non-drying clay
➢ The Prop Builders Molding and Casting Handbook
➢ Stirring sticks and Mixing cups
➢ Complete instructions
➢ This kit is a $64.40 value and sells for a special introductory price of only $59.95
www.micromark.com
Slots In Bumpers Of Old Cars
➢ COMPLETE RESIN CASTING STARTER SET➢ Price $69.95
➢ The same materials and techniques that professionals use to build their models. Our silicone mold rubber and urethane casting resins faithfully reproduce even the most microscopic details, so you can be assured of getting exact duplicates of your most highly detailed patterns. And they're so easy to use, you can make perfect castings in as little as 15 minutes!
➢ Our Complete Starter Set contains everything you need to begin resin casting, including one each of the following:
o #82083 ONE-to-ONE/RAPID is an economical general purpose mold rubber that is easy to mix: Simply stir equal volumes of A and B together and pour. Use over and over to make many resin castings, even those with slight undercuts. 30 minute pot life, 4 hour cure. De-airs without vacuum. 3.2 lb. kit contains approx. 32 fl. oz. total material.
o #82057 CR-600 Casting Resin (provides more time for mixing and pouring) 7 minute pot life; demold in 30 minutes. 2.4 lb. kit contains approx. 32 fl. oz. total material.
o #80475 Rubber-To-Rubber Mold Release. Required when making 2 part RTV molds. Keeps mold halves from sticking together. 2 fl. oz.
o #80476 Kleen Klay. A special synthetic clay that will not contaminate silicone rubber. Use for containing flow of RTV during mold making and for making simple molds. (Place a little talcum powder on the part and press it into the clay. Then carefully remove the part and pour resin into the cavity.) 1 lb.
o #80352 Mixing Set. Includes six 8 oz. calibrated plastic mixing cups, six stir sticks, three brushes.
o #82664 Rubber-To-Resin Mold Release. Makes it easy to remove resin castings from molds. 14 oz. spray.
www.hobbyengineering.com/SectionBM.html
➢ Item: 1262 $70.00
o The Super Casting Kit contains everything you need to make a mold and cast your part in 1 day! All measuring tools are included for the Alumilite and the QuickSet Rubber. All products are non-toxic and can easily be used in your home. The Mini Super Casting Kit contains all of the same materials as the Super Kit includes but in smaller quantities. (note: the Mini Super Casting Kit does not contian Mold Release Powder) Mfr. # 10500
o Super Kit Includes:
• AB28 Kit Alumilite Regular
• 1 lb. QuickSet RTV Silicone Rubber
• 1 lb. Alumilite Synthetic Modeling Clay
• 2 oz. Rubber to Rubber Mold Release
• 1 oz. Measuring Cups
• Stir Sticks
• How-To Booklet
➢ Item: 1263 $30.00
o The Mini-Super Casting kit includes sample quantities of everything you need to test the process for yourself: QuickSet RTV Silicone Rubber and Alumilite Synthetic Modeling Clay for making molds, regular AB28 Alumilte casting plastic, 1 oz. masuring cups, stir sticks and a how-to booklet . Mfr. # 10560